United Horned Hair Sheep Association, Inc.

Most sheep will graze peacefully and stay well contained in a pasture or paddock with a 4 foot high
fence.  Higher fences may be needed depending on your particular flock. When fencing, make sure
fence is erected to keep predators out as well as keeping sheep in.  Fencing with a mesh type pattern
is recommended.  When startled, the sheep will flock together and if chased some individuals may
leap, run, and possibly clear a 4 foot high fence.  They are usually more athletic than wool sheep or
larger hair sheep such as the Katahdin or Dorper sheep so they can and will run faster and leap
higher and are beautiful and graceful as they jump and seem to fly.   

While the sheep breeds represented by United Horned Hair Sheep Association, Inc., can be naturally
wild and flighty, the sheep can become very docile when handled and individual sheep may have a
docile and friendly disposition even without a lot of handling.  Bottle raised ewes can make great pets
if cared for properly.  Bottle feeding ram lambs is not recommended unless it is to save the ram lamb's
life as at maturity some bottle fed rams could become aggressive.   Castrating the ram lambs that
have been bottle fed may assist with fending off aggressive behavior, but it will also stop the horn

Painted Desert and Texas Dall sheep have been halter broke and exhibited and shown at live sheep
shows  with great success. They have held their own in the show ring, competing against other breeds
and placing as top breeds in several open breeding shows.   While most show breeders will not work
with their rams everyday to prevent aggressive behavior, the more you work with your ewe flock and
are around them, generally the more calm the sheep will be around you.  In fact, many breeders who
interact with their ewes everyday find that some ewes can become quite friendly while you are holding
the grain buckets!

Just like all breeds of sheep, the sheep can sense when it is time for medicine and no matter how
friendly they have been, they will probably run away from you!  Most breeders use a catch pen or
smaller area for checking their sheep and doing health maintenance.  Catch pens can be homemade
from items you already have or purchased from equipment stores.  It is nice to have your catch pen to
be higher than 4 feet to prevent sheep from escaping by jumping.

Lambs and Ewes will run and play. One of the most wonderful and rewarding sights is to watch the
lambs run and play "king of the mountain".  The sheep love to climb and jump and chase each other.  
This observed behavior, in conjunction with hands on checking of the sheep as required, can also let
you know that the sheep are feeling good.  Sheep that move slowly, or that can not keep up with the
flock should be examined to determine problem.


These sheep are generally excellent mothers with twins, triplets and the rare quadruplets being
produced.  Mouflon ewes will produce only single lambs with the rare twin occurring.  In cases of
multiple lambs, most ewes can easily take care of all offspring.  Breeders will monitor the situation
when multiple births occur and ensure that all the lambs have gotten a first drink and continue to
receive enough milk.  Gestation dates run from 142 - 155 days generally, with an average of 150 days
being the best estimate from time of breeding to time of lambing. NM Dahl sheep tend toward the 155
day mark.  If a marking harness is used, breeding dates can be recorded and you will have a good
idea of what day lambs will arrive.

Some breeders lamb in barns or lambing jugs, while other breeders have their ewes lamb out on
pasture.  Others do a combination where the ewes lamb outside in shelter and are brought in for a
couple of days to make sure the lambs are doing well.    If you lamb during the winter or times of wet
and cool weather, make sure that the lambs are able to get dried off quickly or are in a dry, warmer
place until they are dried off.  While these sheep are hardy, all newborn lambs could become chilled
quickly in the right conditions. Some breeders place all first time mothers in a lambing jug or stall for a
day or so to make sure she will accept and care for lambs and has enough milk for them.


WEANING: Lambs are ready for weaning around 10 - 12 weeks of age with  Mouflon lambs' weaning
age tending toward the longer period.  While some ewes will wean their lambs on their own, others will
not so it is best to remove the lambs at 12 weeks of age, especially for ram lambs.  If both ewe and
ram lambs are weaned at the same time, the weanlings should be separated by gender during the
weaning process.

BREEDING: Ram Lambs have been known to breed as early as age 3 to 4 months of age. Removing
the ram lambs at age 12 weeks from all ewes, including weanling ewe lambs, is the only sure way to
ensure the accurate identification of which ram is the sire to the next lambs - especially important for
registered stock.  Weaning ram lambs at 12 weeks of age and keeping them separate from weanling
ewe lambs will also prevent the ewe lambs from breeding too early.

Ewe lambs generally start cycling between 5 - 8 months and as young as 4 months of age. Some
breeders will wait until after the ewe lambs are one year old to expose them to a ram while other
shepherds plan for the first lambing to occur as or after the ewe lambs turn one year. At what age to
expose ewe lambs to a ram for breeding should b dependent upon the size in comparison to the
parents, condition, and health of the ewe lamb.  Using smaller sized rams for the first breeding can be
helpful.  In addition, good nutrition is invaluable to young expectant ewes.

Depending upon the fertility and drive of the breeding flock sire and time placed with the ewe flock,
one ram can tend to 50 plus ewes.  Placing more than one ram in with the ewes at the same time or
within two weeks (more time is preferred) of removing a different breeding flock sire is never advised
for registered flocks as accurate identification of both the sire and dam is required.

PLANNING LAMBING PERIODS:  If you would like to have a period of time without lambs, you will also
need to remove the flock sire ram from the ewe flock as these sheep can breed any time of the year
though the rams' activity may decrease during the hottest months.  For example, removing your ram
from the flock during July, August and September will prevent lambs from arriving in December,
January and February and vice versa.   Ewe lambs which are not to be bred at the time, should be
removed from the ewe flock when the flock sire is present and not kept with any ram lambs over the
age of 12 weeks.

KEEPING EWES AND RAMS: Some breeders find that having another ram to keep the flock sire
company after his time with the ewes to be beneficial if you do remove your flock sire. You would need
at least another ram or older ram lamb to keep the "companion ram" company during the time when
the flock sire is in with the ewes.  It is advisable, if you keep the rams away from the ewes, to have an
area between the rams and the ewes.

Mature rams generally tolerate ram lambs and breeders can keep the older rams with their younger
weanling ram lambs.  There are mature rams that will not tolerate young rams or even ram lambs so
the rams would then need to be kept separate based on age to prevent injury or death to other
younger rams.

Whenever introducing new rams, especially yearlings and mature rams, into a ram pen or pasture, it is
best to arrange a small area in which to contain the rams so they do not have enough room to
seriously hurt each other as they adjust to each other and decide who is in charge.  Ewes also can be
seen adjusting to each other and deciding who is "top ewe of the pasture" at times, but without the
large horns and strength of a ram, they are much less likely to injure each other.

HEALTH MANAGEMENT:    Work with your local veterinarian and talk with other sheep breeders in
your areas to plan out a health management plan as the health care of your sheep can be very farm
specific.  Corsican, Desert Sand, Painted Desert, Texas Dall, Black Hawaiian, Multi-horned Hair and
NM Dahl Sheep are generally more able to withstand internal parasites than sheep with wool, but
certain individuals may need more or less attention.  Hair Sheep are also more immune to problems
with external parasites.

Deworming schedules are different in each area and can be very farm specific.  Check with your local
veterinarian about your area and recommended deworming schedules.  Wet, moist and humid areas
may require more frequent dewormings than areas that are low in humidity and much drier. The
FAMACHA system was developed in South Africa for one of the major internal parasites of all sheep
and goats.  Talk to your local veterinarian and/or do stool samples to determine if
(barber pole worm) is of concern on your farm and learn about the FAMACHA system.

Proper hoof care is important.  Dependent upon your soil type and environment, your sheep may not
ever need to have their hooves trimmed, while other sheep at other farms based on the soil and
environment may need to have hooves trimmed two or three times a year.  Some individual sheep
tend to grow their hooves faster than others.
THIS website is copyright May 2009 by United Horned Hair Sheep Association, Inc.  
Active Members of UHHSA are permitted to use information on their website to help in
ethical and honest promotion and education about the breeds represented.  However,
a link to this website should be provided.

Pictures are copyrighted by owners of the sheep pictured and permission will need to
be sought to use the pictures.
INFORMATION about the Nature, Lambing, Mothering and
General Flock Management for Painted Desert, Texas Dalls,
Black Hawaiian, Corsican,
Desert Sand, Multi-horned Hair, NM Dahl
and Mouflon Sheep
Click on picture above to learn
how to measure and score
YOUR ram!